395 Views
Get the Power Probe here http://amzn.to/1k3Hk0M
Well Sam came to me saying his driver door will lock but won’t unlock with the switch but the key fob will unlock it. The door will unlock though the passenger door lock. I have a Matco scanner and was able to unlock the door with that but it won’t receive the signal when i’m triggering the door to unlock. We swapped switches from the passenger side and still never had luck even with a working switch.
https://twitter.com/bullshitkorner
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bullshitkorner/415124691917952
http://www.bskorner.com
source
Try checking the under dash (by/above parking brake pedal) "Remote Activation module Switch" (4" X 4" white plastic square) with 2 electrical plugs going to it. Might need to replace that unit?
Im having a problem with mine driver and passenger side lock button doesn’t work but will open with key fob
2012 Ford F150 Doors wont open. Battery must be dead by now too. Is there a recall? Hate having a truck i cant get into. Note: I have no knowledge on any of this video explains. Someone else it to me like a,4 yr old. Thx
Give power supply with the relay
I have this problem in my 2011 f150 did you ever find the fix for this??
I have a problem I can't get the door open and I've been trying to look for videos but there's nothing The handle on the inside works but the handle on the outside doesn't but the door won't unlock to get it open and I can't get it open at all
I have the same problem in my 06 mustang. Did you figure yours out?
Check both fuse boxes
Well my key will not unlock from outside the truck. Not keyless remote just old-school key style unlock entry. Could be a fuse and it's grounded out. I think the lock system stays hot.
Mine on my excursion is doing the same thing – Keyless entry works – Fob works but not the switches – they will lock but will not unlock – no alarm system on my truck – but you think it might be the same cause ?
I'd check the wire harness going from door to inside the vehicle!
I'd test the relays in the dash. ( passanger side, above the air bag)
i have the same problem on 2005 Chrysler 300 touring mine unlocks but wont lock
I have this same problem in my 2000 expedition
Pabst blue ribbon keeping mechanics sane!
My 2009 F150 just started doing that last weekend! Funny you mentioned an aftermarket remote starer. I have the same. Gonna run it back to where it was installed to see if it might be them that caused it. Remote starter has been in for a year now.
Sounds like an open circut
I'm having the exact same problem with a used F250 2004 with Myers plow I just bought. There's a shitload of wiring on the plow, and they added flashing lights to the trucks front and back blinkers, the cigarette light doesn't work either. The automatic unlock at 2:46 is normal, I got two Lincoln Continentals that do that…it's a pain in the ass.
What is that red wire tester? Looks great, does it pierce the insulation on the wires or no ?
Door hinge wires are good?? I've seen many F150s with bust wires
Ok. First remove the kick panel and rocker cover. Look under the carpet for the main harness. I'd check to see if the lock/unlock wires from the Compustar unit are triggering locks from that location. It's possible to use the factory alarm wires to lock the truck. They are the wires that correspond to the 7/8 9/0 on the exterior key pad. They must be diode isolated and triggered at the same time. The unlock wire color from the Compu model will be Blue- lock will be Green(22g). I'd suspect that there is a bad connection in that area. All door pin connections are in the same location as well if I remember correctly. Hope this helps a bit. I've worked on so many of these trucks in the past
Wow for a 2012 …. sad. Im having to replace the latch module on my Prius cause the drivers door quit working 120.00 – thanks Toyota LOL. As far as the Ford – I would look at an aftermarket wireless remote install instructions – I found many of the newer cars are looking for a specific OHM value signal rather than a positive – negative trigger. If something on the aftermarket alarm changes the ohm value that could be it while your scanner is sending the correct signal to the BCM- just a thought.
I had same problem,its either a shorting/broken wire going from body to door,or its the acuator itself
I think when u lock it the unlock if key is in ignition at least the Chevy I drive does that so that may be normal and not part of the issue you know how sometimes something stupid can send you down the wrong road, also did you try googling the issue multipal ways that might be of some help hope this helps
if the keyless remote works its gonna be some haggard wiring to the bcm
check the wires in the door jamb they get pinched all the time
the fact it is able to be controled with the scanner makes me think the bcm is good and the wires from it to the actuator are good. I think you have a open between the dvr switch and the bcm probably in the door hinge wiring it makes sense cuz the dvr door is the most used one and those wires are common to break and would do what you are experienceing
I have 2 questions, I have a 98 f150 4.6l ext cab 4×4 and Im in need of some new tires before winter. Could you help me decide to stay with 265/70/17 or go with 285/70/17? And the other one is what years of stock rims will fit my truck? I have 5 lug rim. I love watching your videos man and when its beer time I try and have one in my hand to haha Thank you
check where the harness goes through from the door to the body, not uncommon to have broken wires in there. i see it occasionally at the dealer i work at.
@2:45 I think ford trucks can be programmed to prevent you from locking yourself out. You can override this feature by pulling the outside door handle and holding it when you hit the lock switch.
If I'm understanding this correctly, you can both lock and unlock the doors normally everywhere except from the driver's side door switch, yes? And swapping the switch out for a known-good switch didn't change anything?
Your main BCM is good. You've shown that it's able to both interpret and issue a Lock and Unlock command. What I haven't seen is data from a properly functioning system, so we still don't know how it's supposed to act. If the passenger side door works properly, pull it apart and perform all the same tests. That 10.6 volt signal is a bit suspect. I would be surprised if the passenger side showed the same voltages under the same tests.
Alternatively, you could do a bypass test on the switch itself. Get a wiring diagram so you know how the switch functions, and manually feed the same signal the switch would be creating through the harness at the switch connector. Be careful with this test, however, because if the switch isn't simply passing/changing an always-present voltage, you could damage computer components.
As it stands, I suspect either a faulty harness, or a faulty Door Module. Still need more info to narrow it down, though. 🙂
Did he have problems right after the aftermarket alarm was installed?
check wiring running from door to inside
if the matco tool can unlock it, but the switch and key fob wont, doesnt that mean an input problem to the computer? or a computer glitch where it recieves the "open" command but does something other than send the proper "open" voltage (possibly due to the aftermarket)?
either way who needs this newfangled technology anyway. manual locks and windows all the way!